Sometimes, you have the chance to create custom items for someone that turn out even nicer than what you had envisioned! This lovely design was the idea of Rebecca Brittian, a photographer with a wonderful sense of design. She came to me with the idea, and we were both delighted with the results!
The bezel setting was created basically like a pear-shaped tube mount. I made the first, outer tube to fit the diameter of the diamond. After soldering it shut with hard solder, I fabricated a second, inner tube to slide into the mount. Once I had them fitted together, I tapped the tube in with a leather mallet, leaving about 1/8th an inch clearance to set the diamond down in. I soldered it in place with medium solder, then trimmed the bottom of the mounting with a jewelers saw.
I filed a flat spot to join the tube mount, then soldered it directly to the band with medium solder. Then I filed a small 90 degree v-shaped notch at the point of the pear, to relieve the pressure on the stone during setting. After clean-up and polishing, I was able to burnish edge of the mounting the diamond, and polish it to a bright shine!
Please visit my website at http://www.etsy.com/shop/moonkistdesigns for contact information and more ideas. I’d love to help you create your own special piece of uniquely perfect jewelry!